Muscat

This fairy-tale gateway to the splendours of the Sultanate of Oman is an essential stop on a Middle East cruise.

The pier lies in Muttrah, the original old town and home to a large souq. A 3-minute shuttle takes passengers to the port gate. Once the port bus drops you at the main gate, turn left and follow the path on that side of the road towards the new fish and meat market, a single-storey white building with a modern roof. Continue along the pavement to the traffic lights, then cross there or use the pedestrian bridge to reach the Muttrah souq.

Taxis are plentiful at the port gate. They are not metered, but government-set fares apply: 10 Rial (20 Euro) per hour for the first 3 hours, followed by 7 Rial per hour.

Before oil was discovered, Muttrah was Oman's commercial centre in Muscat. It remains a centre of commerce because one of the region's largest seaports is based there.

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Small Muscat occupies a dramatic cove on the Gulf of Oman, encircled by volcanic mountains and protected by two old Portuguese forts. The Sultanate of Oman's capital combines Arab, Indian, African and European architecture. There are no high-rises: the city is spread out, with buildings limited to 8 floors.

• At the water's edge, seek out the sultan's palace or spend time at the important national museum.
• Al Jalali Fort and Al Mirani Fort stand on Qasr Al Alam Street. Built into the rocky mountains in 1580 during the Portuguese occupation, they served as prisons and have since become museums.
• The Grand Mosque is the world's third-largest mosque, and almost all of the complex welcomes non-Muslim visitors. Women are advised to cover their heads, while men should wear long trousers. Highlights include the Swarovski crystal chandelier, the world's largest handmade Persian carpet and marble panelling. Public visiting hours are from 9 until noon, Mondays through Thursdays. Even if another mosque was not on your list, this one merits a visit.
• Places within walking distance include:
• The recently renovated Corniche Area is popular for a stroll and has plenty of reasonably priced places to eat.
• Often described as the Gulf region's finest marketplace, Muttrah Souk is a maze-like souq that also contains a fish market. Its shops sell jewellery, traditional Omani handicrafts and Omani food at reasonable prices, and several take credit cards.

Catch the number 4 bus near the souq entrance for a journey into Muscat costing around 1 rial. Local currency is required, and the return service drops passengers at the new fish and meat market.

Oman's taxi drivers are friendly, and all are Omanis because the profession is reserved for nationals. Fares are very reasonable; vehicles are well maintained with good A/C, and drivers generally speak reasonable English and take pride in showing visitors their striking country.

Tell the taxi driver how long you would like the service for, with 3 -4 hours recommended, then settle back for a tour of Muscat. There is no need to provide an itinerary because the driver will know all the highlights of this exceptionally attractive and clean city.

The Souk and Corniche, including several pavement cafés, are the only attractions within walking distance. Reaching the Corniche takes about 30-40 minutes. Its flat, new pavement is suitable for families with pushchairs and people using wheelchairs. The big bus also stops here.

A Hop on/off bus stops directly in front of the ship, so no shuttle is necessary. Services are scheduled at 30-minute intervals, although waits can be longer.

Walk 2km from the pier and enter Muttrah Souk from the waterfront to bargain for Arab headwear costing 1 rial, clothing, nuts, spices, incense, earthenware and other goods. The journey is pleasant on foot in winter; in summer, use an A/C taxi. The souk is broadly closed between 1PM and 5PM, then comes alive after dark if your ship stays overnight in Muscat.

Muscat City Centre in Seeb is currently the largest mall, with numerous shops including a large Carrefour.

Banks and currency-exchange shops can be found near the Souq entrance.

Muscat uses the Omani rial (OMR), with one rial divided into one thousand Baisa. Since 1986, the official peg has been 1 rial = 2.6008 US dollars, or 2 Euro. Street exchange rates are a percent or two lower. The UAE's Dirham is accepted everywhere, removing the need to obtain Rials, and credit cards are widely taken.

Arabic is the national language, but most Omanis speak good to excellent English, especially in cities and the principal tourist areas.

Only a handful of pavement cafés near the souq provide WiFi with the purchase of a drink or something else. Soft drinks and coffee are very reasonably priced.

Shopping establishments generally open from 9am to 1 pm and again from 4pm to 9 pm. During Ramadan, department stores, supermarkets and shopping complexes trade throughout the day from 9am to 10 pm, with a brief lunch break each day except Fridays. Individual shop times can differ.