Istanbul

Be on deck as Istanbul comes into view: its domes and minarets create one of the world’s most unforgettable skylines.

For an overnight stay, a starboard balcony stateroom gives an exceptional outlook towards Sultanahmet, where all, or most, highlights are found.

Istanbul’s new five-berth cruise port is complete. It belongs to a large waterfront development of marina, hotels and shops roughly four miles from the Golden Horn. Its terminal is built underground, using a project claimed to be the first of its kind in the world. Depending on where you dock, the underground route to the terminal exit may be very long.

The tram, running roughly every 5 minutes, is the best route to Sultanahmet. Tap in with a Mastercard debit/credit card, though some foreign cards fail; then use the machines to purchase an Istanbulkart or 1-10 trip cards. Watch for scammers who pretend to assist but load their own card with your money. Do not let anyone touch the machine or the card it issues while you are present. Only one transaction is required: if you are persuaded to use your credit card twice, you have certainly been scammed. Fares change constantly with inflation; it was 20 lira/ride…

A taxi reaches Sultanahmet Square, near most major sights, in only 10 minutes. From the square, most attractions are walkable. Ask a cruise-hall tour-desk representative for a fair price before speaking to drivers and settle the fare in advance, as drivers ignore the meter.

Galata bridge is a pleasant 10 minute walk. Leave the cruise terminal, turn left, then turn left again towards the board walk. From the bridge, Sultanahmet is a slightly uphill walk. Galata bridge has two levels: the lower level contains restaurants and the upper level carries traffic. Although the lower level has more atmosphere, it requires a few flights of stairs in the middle, so is not suitable for those with limited mobility.

Directions for reaching the Istanbul cruise terminal:

From Ataturk Airport, yellow taxis take passengers to the ship; express buses and airport shuttles also serve Taksim.

Journeys in the direction of the airport can be heavily congested, particularly at rush hour, so check road traffic conditions before setting out. The coast road connecting Aksaray and Bakirköy to the airport is likely to have lighter traffic.

Bring a printable map.

Your ship arrives on Istanbul’s European (north) side. Galata bridge crosses the Golden Horn, separating the modern Galata district from old Sultanahmet, where the sights are concentrated. With limited time, make Old Sultanahmet the priority. Go to Sultanahmet Square, also the tram-stop name, for Topkapi Palace (Closed Tuesdays), Aya Sophia (closed Mondays), Blue Mosque (no admission during praying times), Archaeological Museum and Hippodrome, all close together. Arrive early and allow the full day.

Women entering Istanbul mosques must cover heads, shoulders and knees; toes may show, but chest and legs need covering. Bring your own head scarf if you wish, though scarves are supplied at each mosque entrance.

At sunset, from Europe’s Bosporus shore, golden evening light reflects in windows on the Asian shore; from Asia, you can watch the sun go down behind old Istanbul’s elegant minarets. It is immediately clear why people settled in this extraordinary place many centuries ago, and there will be moments when Istanbul feels truly among the world’s most glorious cities.

After Sultanahmet, take one of the numerous ferries to the Asian side for a less touristy but equally rewarding experience of Turkish life. The fare is 3 Lira each way.

Use Istanbul City Hop-on Hop-off Tour only if you intend to travel farther out. Otherwise, the tram is a faster, cheaper choice.

Most ferries depart from both sides of Galata bridge, which links new Istanbul with Sultanahmet. City ferries are unquestionably the easiest, cheapest and most enjoyable means of crossing between the two sides; sea buses provide a faster service on longer routes. Some operators also run Bospurus cruises from Sultanamet and from a point around 400 meters beyond the cruise terminal.

Taxis are inexpensive and regulated in town, yellow and easy to find. On longer journeys drivers may ask for more than the meter shows, so agree the fare beforehand. Traffic can be dreadful, so do not “miss the boat”.

Grand Bazaar is the principal shopping destination and closes Sundays. Take the tram to Beyazit to avoid a steep walk; more than 3000 merchants await. The Spice Bazaar sits near the waterfront below it. Visiting Misir Çarsisi is more than a search for the exotic—it is an opportunity to experience Istanbul’s traditional commercial life.

Sultanahmet Square’s surroundings are full of restaurants and coffee houses. Choose venues displaying a fixed menu outside. Restaurants by tram stops with aggressively eager staff can be rip-offs, sometimes using one menu to attract guests and another to calculate the bill, then adding a “service charge”. Inspect the bill carefully and challenge it if necessary.

Restaurants close to a mosque cannot serve alcoholic beverages; all other restaurants can.

Tea gardens, or kahve, are an essential summer-night pleasure: sip tea or cool down while looking over a magnificent sea view.

Turkey uses the Turkish Lira. Public transport and most museums accept only Turkish Lira, while many shops and restaurants take Euro and sometimes US$. Check that any change is correct. Cash machines in convenient places, including just outside the cruise terminal, allow credit- or debit-card withdrawals of local currency.

Many hotels, restaurants and cafes have free wireless access. It is not always advertised, so ask.

Emergency Ambulance: 112 throughout Turkey. Police: 155 throughout Turkey.

In tourist and coastal areas, shop hours are flexible. During summer, many stores remain open late seven days a week, allowing visitors to browse comfortably and avoid daytime heat.