Guangzhou

Cruise ships will probably berth at Nansha Port, far from the city center.

A major infrastructure project added two berths and a 60.000 square-meter passenger terminal, opened in November 2019.

The terminal connects directly with China’s mass transportation system, only a 500 meter walk away.

The eventual aim is four megaship-ready berths; currently the port can handle one mid-sized vessel and one megaship.

Bring a printable map along.

Guangzhou is a renowned historic city and was capital of three Chinese dynasties: Nan Yue (South Yue), Nan Han (South Han) and Nanming (South Ming). It is one of the 24 most famous historical cultural cities and a tourist destination. Understanding Guangzhou, like most Chinese cities, requires its history. The Western Han Nanyue King’s Tomb Museum, Zhenhai Tower and Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall reveal its 2,000-year story.

A taxi or van is usually the best city transport: both are cheap and plentiful. Speak with the driver first to assess language skills.

A possible itinerary:

Begin at Western Han Dynasty Nanyue King Mausoleum Museum, Guangzhou’s showcase with more than 2,000 years of history. Continue to the Five-Ram Statue in Yuexiu Park; the five-rams sculpture symbolises Guangzhou, and Yuexiu is China’s largest urban parkland.

After lunch, see Temple of Six Banyan Trees, an ancient Buddhist temple built originally in 537 and one of Guangzhou’s four best Buddhist temples. Its 57.6 m Flower Pagoda is the city’s tallest old structure. Then visit Qingping Market: Cantonese people are known to eat anything, from persimmons and scallops to seahorse, starfish and fungus; it is also good for “People Watch”.

Finish at Shamian Island, once the French and United Kingdom concessions granted by the Qing Dynasty government in the 19th century. It is now a peaceful part of busy Guangzhou without heavy traffic, with late 19th century and early 20th century houses.

Taxi drivers fall roughly into three groups:

Keep away from touts: they will charge a multiple of the correct fare, while an honest cabbie can be found by walking half a block. The mechanics have built their own taximeter, with all consequences. Honest cabbies are by far the largest group ( >90%) because the Chinese government is clamping down on tourist mistreatment; the farther south you go in China, the more honest people become. Make sure the meter is switched on, otherwise get out.

Important: when buying a town guide book, choose the latest edition available. Construction happens at such an enormous pace that what is present today may no longer be there tomorrow. Check that guide-book maps include “english” as well as “chinese” characters. This lets you and the cabdriver communicate simply by pointing at the map, because cabdrivers speak only chinese.

Every major tourist town has one or more western shopping malls, often the only places for larger clothing sizes. They are enjoyable, but almost everything is fake and bargaining is hard. Showing bills to state your offer then walking away is often quickest; if called back, complete the deal. Remain courteous.

Restaurants are frequently grouped together in particular city districts, identified by very colourful decorations meant to attract customers. Walk past and select places patronised by chinese families themselves. Most menus include pictures of served items, while seafood is generally kept alive in large tanks. Eating out in China is a feast: there is little etiquette and it is generally noisy, so enjoy it. Drink only bottled water, including when brushing teeth, and take common precautions when eating out.

Currency is the Yuan, or Renminbi RMB.

Small-denomination counterfeit bills are sometimes given. There is nothing to do except keep one as a souvenir.

Internet use is highly developed in China: even modest hotels usually have WiFi in rooms and public Internet stations, often free or at very modest cost.

Emergency numbers: China 110; Hong Kong and Macao 999.

Stores appear to have no set opening hours and may remain open while customers are present.

Chinese New Year, about two weeks long, sees Chinese people travelling and can make transportation very hectic.