Dakar

Ships berth at Mole I Port de Dakar, less than a mile from the city centre. Taxis are normally available outside the main port entrance. Agree the fare before leaving, and be ready for demands for more money at the end despite the earlier agreement.

Warning: stay highly alert to pickpockets and similar risks.

Dakar, capital of the Republic of Senegal, is a lively city of broad tree-lined avenues, colourful open-air markets, welcoming cafes and a touch of French elan. Contemporary architecture stands beside colonial historic buildings, while galleries, boutiques and street vendors sell fine paintings, sculptures, crafts, colourful clothing and imported goods.

The 5* Pullman Hotel (Accor Group) sits in a corner of Independence Square, with good views of the sea, corniche, Presidents Palace and beaches.

Taxis are cheap, safe and everywhere; overlook the broken windshields. Fares are agreed in advance and require bargaining. Visitors from outside Senegal may be quoted an outrageous price, so ask local people what they pay to understand what you can obtain.

An organized tour is recommended because crime levels are relatively high.

Gorée is home to the House of Slaves (French: Maison des esclaves), built by an Afro-French Métis family about 1780–1784. One of the island's oldest houses, it is now a tourist destination presenting the horrors of the Atlantic slave trade. It is fairly easy to visit independently without a ship tour if you can reach the ferry, which is not far from the ship berth. Allow about 3 hours and watch the ferry schedule.

Save shopping until you return to the dock, where local people set up a large market and bargaining is required.

The busy Marche Kermel marketplace is also near the docks.

The persistent bargaining from thousands of street vendors can become tiring. Politely say "No thank you" and move on; do not abuse a trader, who is only trying to feed his family.

CFA francs are the local currency, although the US dollar is generally accepted.

Wolof is the native language and French is widely used. Many cafes offer customers free WiFi, as do many restaurants.

Shops generally trade mon-sat from 8:30a.m. to 7:00 p.m.