Making the most of Bissau
Use these notes to shape a realistic day ashore, then confirm any time-sensitive information for the date of your call.
Arriving at the port
Cruise vessels cannot berth at Bissau, so passengers are carried to land by tender.
Formerly a Portuguese colony, Guinea-Bissau borders Senegal in the north and Guinea to the east and south. Its history since independence has been unsettled: civil war in 1998 was followed by military rule in 1999, which has since given way to multiparty democracy. The economy is still fragile, although hopes remain high.
Bissau Velho is the former Portuguese colonial centre. It has little activity today but remains pleasant for a walk. Look for the prison painted with pink flowers near the fort’s corner, close to the harbour.
At Porto Pidjiguiti, walk beyond the small port to speak with fishermen, watch pelicans and view the city from a distance. On 3rd of August 1959, police killed some 50 striking dock workers in the Pidjiguiti massacre, an event that initiated active resistance to Portuguese colonial rule. A huge black-fist monument commemorates those killed.
Mercado de Bandim serves as Bissau’s main market.
The presidential palace survived bombing during the civil war and still stands, although bats are now its only inhabitants.
Fortaleza d’Amura is an old Portuguese fort containing national hero Amilcar Cabral’s mausoleum and the graves of other revolutionaries. Cabral’s car is kept inside, beside a statue donated by Cuba some 20 years ago but never erected for reasons that remain difficult to explain. Entry can be challenging, yet may be possible with military permission or after befriending the soldiers.
Museu Etnográfico Nacional, or National Ethnographic Museum, occupies the university campus opposite Lenox de Bairro and opens only in the morning. Its compact collection includes Bissau-Guinean wooden masks and figures, baskets and clothing. Helpful staff explain the objects’ purposes and their links with traditional spiritual beliefs.
Getting around
Shared taxis are inexpensive and abundant. Flag one down and state or point towards your destination; a driver accepts with na bai, meaning I’m going, or refuses when existing passengers are travelling elsewhere. Fares are fixed, and overcharging is not normally a problem.
Before departure, ensure yellow fever, hepatitis A, tetanus and typhoid vaccinations are current. Malaria prophylaxis is strongly recommended; ask a medical doctor which type is suitable.
Food and shopping
Bandim Market, the country’s largest, stands beside the main road into town. It sells a broad range of goods in an enjoyable atmosphere.
Money
The currency is the West African CFA franc.
ATMs are extremely scarce, while euros are accepted in some places.
Staying connected
Portuguese is spoken.
Numerous internet cafés operate across central Bissau.