Aitutaki

As cruise ships cannot dock here, passengers tender ashore to the wharf at Arutanga. When leaving the tender, notice the large flat rock in the grass on the right: the Visitor’s Rock. Island tradition says stepping on it on arrival welcomes you into the village, while stepping on it on departure lets you leave everything behind.

Aitutaki has recently been listed among the world’s top ten beaches. The ship cannot enter the lagoon, however, so tendering through large waves and breaking surf sometimes means the port is missed.

Aitutaki in the Cook Islands has one of the world’s most exquisite lagoons. It is so large that Rarotonga, the Cook Islands’ largest island, fits inside. The lagoon measures 12 km across its base and 15km from top to bottom. The flat main island, Aitutaki, is in the lagoon’s north section, with another 20 uninhabited small Islands (motu), mostly around the eastern edge.

Aitutaki’s main island has about 2000 people. A pleasant coastal road, several cross-island roads and many bush tracks through inland plantations make it easy to explore. There is no regular bus, so hire a moped or bicycle from most hotels, or walk to many places with a good sun hat and plenty of drinking water.

The main island has a population of about 2000, a pretty coastal road, several cross-island roads and many bush tracks through inland plantations, all making exploration easy. There is no regular bus service, so hire a moped or bicycle from most hotels. With a good sun hat and plenty of drinking water, it is even possible to walk to most places on the island.

With only a day in this southern paradise, an organised lagoon tour is likely to be the best choice. Take a cruise tour, book one of five island tours online with a private company before arrival, or hire a boat taxi at the tender pier.

Cruises usually depart the jetty near O’otu Beach around 10am and return by 3.30pm or 4pm, operating Monday to Saturday. Wear a hat, or make sure the boat is covered, and bring snorkelling gear. Prices are about NZ$75.

Several boats on the island can take visitors big-game fishing outside the reef for marlin, tuna, wahoo and mahi-mahi, or fishing for smaller reef fish within the lagoon.

Scooters, cars and bicycles are available to hire at several places on the island and at some hotels.

Arutanga Village on the west coast is the main settlement, with a lovely white church, wharf, post office, bank, supermarket, restaurant and petrol station. Its deep-water harbour has no beach, but one begins less than a mile north at Ureia, where colourful houses line the main road beside a large playing field. Outrigger canoes are often seen fishing in the lagoon. Swimming is OK there, although snorkelling is less good.

At the southern end of Ootu Point is a beautiful swimming beach with fine island views. It is also the departure point for most island day cruises.

An ATM is within walking distance of the tender pier. The New Zealand Dollar is the local currency, supplemented by attractive multi-shaped local coins and the distinctive Cook Island Three Dollar Note.

Internet facilities are available on the island, although use costs NZ$1 per minute.